Canine Culture

I make fast friends wherever I go in Chile. In any town, I find that there are happy little faces with wet noses who are eager to play and get to know me.

Tired doggy taking a nap on Paseo Ahumada in Santiago.

In Santiago there are many street dogs. For the most part I saw them lounging in the sun during the heat of the day. They’re not super healthy but actually are not that skinny either. Friends I met in Santiago say for the most part they are ignored, until every once in a while when one will attack someone and for a while there will be talk of getting rid of them. But then things die down again. All the dogs I met there seemed friendly!

Doggy who followed us into the hills.

In Palena, when Matt, Kristin, Phoebe and I went on a hike through the fields and hills next to the town, we had a little follower. A playful black puppy who got covered in burs during the trip. We lost him in the woods at one point and he never caught up… I hope he made it back to town ok!

Kristin with the little puppy “Linguini.”

Also in Palena at the Patagonia Sur office, an adorable puppy mutt wandered by the front door one day. “Don’t look now but there’s a puppy coming by the door,” Matt told me. I did look and I made friends and the little puppy (whom I jokingly named Linguini) made himself at home both outside and inside the house… He also paid a visit during my practice lesson in the backyard garden there. It’s ok, I suppose there will distractions to deal with in my real classes too.

Gringa taking a swim with me in the Rio Espolón.

Futaleufú is full of dogs of all sorts of shapes, sizes and personalities. Some have a roof to call home, while others mostly wander. The most popular ones I think of as the dog rock stars of Futa. Chani, a three-legged grey and white shaggy dog with an upbeat personality may be my favorite. La Gringa (named such because of her light-colored fur, which is still darker than my skin), a friendly golden retriever, lives here at Eva’s house – Hospedaje Adolfo – where I will be living all this year. Gringa is an endearing soul.

Bicho yawning, or maybe smiling?

Gringa’s son Tofi is a giant golden retriever puppy of six months, who probably weighs as much as me but does not know it. I cannot seem to teach him not to jump on me in excitement when I step into the yard. Between him and Bicho (“Bug”), a little white shaggy dog who barks all night and follows me around town all day, I practically have to carry a big stick with me from protection when I go out into the yard. I have to admit though, I’m usually as happy to see them as they are to see me. They are always up for a game of fetch (with the slobbery apples from out in the yard) whenever I am.

At night the dogs roam the streets, the more domesticated and street dogs alike. They form little packs, split up, check in with their friends from across town, wander around, bark loudly into the dark night. Bicho tries to pretend he’s a bigger dog than he is by barking the loudest (Thanks, Bicho).

I never had a dog before but now I feel like I have a dozen. It’s a nice feeling, especially living in a new place, to have a dozen “best friends”.

Chani, probably my favorite dog ever.